Get rid of dry, cracked, chapped lips

We all hate waking up in the morning with dry, cracked lips. Even worse, the rest of your day is then spent wincing when you drink your coffee, eat hot food or kiss your partner. Margaret E Parsons, MD, FAAD -- an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California at Davis -- offers up the following advice to kiss your chapped lips good-bye.



Figure out what is causing your dry lips
Chapped lips can actually become a condition you used to have. Before you kick your dry lips to the crub, you need to figure out what is causing your dehydrated lips. Here are some root causes to consider avoiding.

Temperature
Although weather is often blamed, it is not always the culprit. While cold and wind can contribute to dry, cracked lips, so can warm temperatures. The heat used to warm your home and car can dry out the air and lower the humidity level, which naturally leads to dry skin and lips. In addition, lips can be sunburned even on blustery, cloudy days.

Cosmetics
Be especially wary of lip plumpers which often contain chemicals to intentionally irritate lips to make them appear fuller. Capsacin (derived from chili peppers), mint and menthol are some ingredients to avoid.

Phenol, an ingredient used in some traditional lip balms, can actually contribute to further drying out the lips. This lends a hint of credence to the claim that some lip balms can be "addictive." Even though phenol is used in low concentrations in lip products, it's the same chemical used in deep-penetrating facial peels.

Foods
Spicy foods and the acid contained in citrus fruits can burn lips and lead to dryness and irritation. In addition, the cut edge of a mango peel contains the chemical Toxicodendron, which is found in poison ivy.

Tip: People with nut allergies should beware of lip products containing nut-based products like shea butter.

Medications
Dr. Parsons advises those who cannot attribute their chapped lips to other common factors to take a close look at their medicine cabinet. Some oral acne medications can cause considerable lip dryness even though they do not come in direct contact with the lips. Products applied topically, particularly acne medications and anti-aging products such as benzoyl peroxde, alpha-hydroxy acids or retinoids, could cause irritation when they come into contact with the lip area.

People with sensitive skin may be more susceptible to allergic reactions from lip products. Other culprits include dehydration, habitually or frequently licking your lips, and having a stuffy nose (forcing you to breathe through your mouth) -- all of these habits can cause your lips to become dry and sore.

TIPS AND TREATMENTS
Apply petroleum jelly or a lip product containing petrolatum or mineral oil to soothe and heal irritated lips
Opt for lipsticks or lip moisturizers which contain sunscreen and wear them year-round
Avoid lip plumpers
Apply a petrolatum-based product at bedtime
Choose lip products with few additives
Drink plenty of fluids in order to stay hydrated
Avoid licking your lips
Use a humidifier in your room while you sleep
See a dermatologist if your lips are not getting better with simple at-home treatments or if new symptoms develop.

Austria's Summer House

The holiday home or summer-house by definition, is a building constructed with a strictly defined personality. For the temporary inhabitant, it is to provide a sense of escape without abandonment, and leisure without effort. It’s very existence is to promote feelings and moods not experienced in our everyday lives. A temporary euphoria squeezed between four walls for a period of the users choosing. It is a social engineer’s architectural dream.


This idea of temporary elation has existed for centuries. But the concept exploded with the onset of modernism and the twentieth century.  A newly emerging middle class sought escapism from the polluted cities while still enjoying the comforts of their newly industrialized homes. A Modernist belief that experience was shaped through design spearheaded the mass-production of seasonal dwelling. Le Corbusier described buildings as “machines for living” and architecture was bent to supply the petit bourgeoisie’s need for leisure and relaxation. Buildings were simplified, historical references and ornament were removed in favor of promoting the beauty of modern materials and construction. Concrete and its featureless character became the material of choice in the construction of buildings throughout Europe and North America. Their homogenous appearance celebrated by Brutalist architects but condemned by post-modernists for their flagrant disregard towards the social, historic, and architectural environment of its surroundings.

Today, this form of design is considered to be archaic in its principles. Concrete is seen to be aesthetically vacuous, and is used structurally rather than visually. Instead, glass facades and organic materials are a building’s ornaments. But a team of architects in Austria have resurrected the ideological trappings of modernist thinkers to create a unique and eerily beautiful interpretation of the holiday villa. Set on lake Millstatter See in Austria, this four-story villa is an ode to the idealism of the holiday homes of old, but simultaneously sits in the avant-garde.

Much of the design was adapted from the hotel that stood previously on the original plot, and can be seen in the bold and unrelenting expanses of concrete. But rather than mask the commanding stretches of grey matter, the team have embraced and adorned the blank walls to become a key part of the building’s persona. The vast expanses complemented by materials that not only enhance the concrete’s authority, but also mimic it in character.  Pale, smooth furniture occupy the inside, while white decking and exposed brick-work dominate the outside. The effect of which, can feel arresting at first, but develops a strange allure when looked at up close.

The building is a prime example of the brutal, unrelenting style of design from the 1950s, but the overhaul of ideas has transformed it into a testament to the contemporary. The fluid transition between interior and exterior, coupled with the large openings throughout the build, allow nature to flow through the cold interior, giving it a warm and organic feel. While the geometric shapes of the building draw imposing silhouettes on the lake and the surrounding countryside.

The minimal material concept; structural concrete in combination with white painted wood and metal surfaces, lends the building a monolithic character. But the upper floors of the building have an intimate, personal feel that doesn’t compromise the need for personal space.

It’s a building that screams arrogance and in places can feel a little soulless.  But the sheer audacity of its form juxtaposed with its purpose as a leisure facility, offers an intriguing concept that hasn’t been seen since Modernism dared to challenge the purpose of design and the human condition.

Key to thin hair: Integrating style and color with total look of the face

What exactly is a "bad hair day?" Research shows that 90 percent of all women claim to have them. But if you have thin tresses, the issue is about more than the odd day when you put your hair up or cover it with a baseball cap.



What exactly is a "bad hair day?" Research shows that 90 percent of all women claim to have them. But if you have thin tresses, the issue is about more than the odd day when you put your hair up or cover it with a baseball cap.
According to a study commissioned by hair and skin product manufacturer Neutrogena, women described bad hair as being "out of place, flat or limp." For those who have thin hair, their locks can look lifeless every day.
It's not unusual for a woman's hair to get thinner as she ages.
At only 23 years old, Kelly Borden said that she has struggled with baby fine and thin hair her whole life. It runs in her family.

Recently, Ms. Borden, who lives in Acushnet but works as an interior designer on Martha's Vineyard, had a specialty makeover at the DeAraujo Salon in Dartmouth. Owner Daniel DeAraujo said that when there is less hair to work with, every decision about cut, color and hair products really counts.
There is no one-strategy-fits-all solution to producing the best look for sparse hair, Mr. DeAraujo said. The key is focusing on the woman's face. He produces a transformation of style, base color, highlights and makeup that enhances a woman's total look.
"Hair is an accessory. I like problem hair. I love a challenge," he said.
Because she was unhappy with the nature of her hair, Ms. Borden had been experimenting with colors, perms and cuts for years. She avoided curling irons or straighteners to keep from damaging her already fragile locks.

When she arrived at the salon, her style was long and wavy, with plenty of volume at the cheek level and below, but not on top. Coupled with the uneven color, the look didn't do the most for her round, attractive face and delicate features.
Ms. Borden has a rigorous commute to work on the ferry in the mornings and she needed a style that was easy to re-create on her own. Her hair had gotten so long, she said, because she has to take a whole day off from her job to keep any appointments on the mainland. She simply hadn't had time to attend to it lately.
After several intensive hours of grooming at DeAraujo, Ms. Borden was thrilled with the results. "I look in the mirror and see someone who looks like she has normal hair. I always looked older because of the thin hair. This has bounce to it," she enthused.
Ms. Borden's new cut is chin-length with long layers that fall softly around her face. Her hair color has been evened out and carefully crafted with multiple shades that make her tresses appear more dense at the roots, while the layers reflect and diffuse the light. She went from a medium brown color to a mixture of dark blond shades with strawberry tones that enhance the color of her fair skin.
In addition to its visual benefits, coloring thin hair also adds bulk to the shafts, colorist Emilia Medeiros said.

To style the hair, Mr. DeAraujo used only a little spray gel and a round brush for a quick blow-dry. Too much heat can damage fine hair, and products that are heavy weigh it down. Light and gentle hair products are the answer for thin hair, even though people might be tempted to try to control their locks with more spray, mousse, heavy gel or wax, he explained.
"It's nice that it looks like it has volume right now. I think that's great." Ms. Borden said.
In Ms. Borden's case, Mr. DeAraujo used an "unconventional approach" to creating her new style. Though most hairstylists wash hair first then cut it while it's wet, Mr. DeAraujo started Ms. Borden's transformation by cutting her hair while it was dry. That way, he said, he could "see the natural fall of the hair, work with cowlicks, better feel the natural state of the hair." After the dry cut, he washed her hair and finished trimming.

Women with thin hair can lose their sense of femininity, Mr. DeAraujo said. One of the most common concerns is having the scalp show the strands. Rather than focus on that concern, "the most important thing is to work with the hair to make it fit the whole individual. You need to invite that person to see themselves differently," Mr. DeArujo said.
For another of Mr. DeAraujo's clients with thin hair, a short hair cut was the best solution because it suited the woman's features. He cut her hair to about one and a half inches from the scalp, bleached it all very blond, left the bangs longer and died the tips dark. For this woman, he said the edgy look that resulted was a great compliment to her face and her personality, even though her scalp did show through.

"Hair is secondary," Mr. DeAraujo said. "The right focus is on the total look. You don't want to do the female equivalent of a comb over."
Though Ms. Borden struggles with hair that has been thin her whole live, other women can experience thinning hair due to different medical conditions, stress or aging.
Medical causes of hair loss in women include thyroid disease, hormonal abnormalities, infections, adrenal gland disease, systemic diseases like Lupus, liver disease and kidney disease.
Female pattern baldness due to aging is called Androgenetic Alopecia. It usually occurs in women over 30 and may intensify with menopause. Unlike male pattern baldness, which results in receding hairlines and bald spots, female pattern baldness usually produces overall thinning.

Black or Brown Discoloration in Your Nail: What Does it Mean?

Have you ever noticed a lengthwise black or brown band on your or someone else’s nail? There are several causes, some are more serious than others, but the most important cause could be melanoma of the nail called subungual melanoma.



Nail discoloration that occurs as a vertical line is also called longitudinal melanonychia. It occurs due to an overproduction of melanocytes in that area of the nail. These nail bands are sometimes caused by “nail moles” and similar to moles elsewhere in the body, may not develop into a more serious problem but still need to be monitored. Nail moles are more common in children.

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Nail pigment bands or melanonychia are quite common in people who have dark skin. It is estimated that 70 percent of African Americans over the age of 20 have nail banding and almost all African Americans over the age of 50 have some type of nail pigment discoloration. Only 10-20 percent of those of Japanese decent have melanonychia and it occurs in less than two percent of Caucasians.

Melanonychia that is found to be skin melanoma (subungual melanoma) has the highest morbidity over other sites in the body so any nail discoloration should be evaluated by a dermatologist. The doctor will review symptoms based on an A through F list to rule out whether melanoma is the cause.

● A: Age. Subungual melanoma is more common in those ages 50 to 70.
● B: Brown/black band is wider than three millimeters.
● C: Change has been noted in the look of the pigment band.
● D: Digit involved. The thumb is the most common, then the great toe and last the index finger.
● E: Extension of the discoloration into the cuticle or nail fold (called Hutchinson sign).
● F: Family history of melanoma.

There are numerous other reasons why nail pigment banding occurs: trauma to the nail, medication, systemic diseases, vitamin deficiencies and other skin conditions which may also appear as banding in more than one finger. A doctor should review your entire medical history to determine what the next step is to take.

If nail melanoma is suspected then a biopsy will be performed.

Designing a Homestead Property for Maximum Efficiency

An old farmer struck it rich in oil and his family persuaded him to buy a $4,000 automobile. Never having had anything better than a second-hand Model T, the old boy insisted on only one thing for the new car — the most colossal and expensive set of bumpers he could find!



I wish we'd had some good bumpers when we decided to move to the country. We bumped our noses on land, on the layout of our house, on the location of our barn, fruit trees, and pasture — on nearly everything a family could blunder at. I hope you'll profit by our mistakes!

Setting up a productive country home is probably the biggest and most important job any of us attempt during our lifetime. Despite all of the people who have needed some basic data on setting up a homestead, no one had completely worked the methods out and put them on paper. Every new family has been left to stumble its own way toward the answers.

Not long after our first edition of the "Have-More" Plan went out, we began to get letters asking for help in laying out a place. Of course, we couldn't give specific advice without seeing each piece of property — and then, people have different ideas of what they want to do with their place.

Even though no one layout will fit everybody's ideas and site, there are certain basic points that ought not to be violated.

For example, where should you locate your house in relation to the highway? (If you do this right you can probably get the town snow plow to do your snow shoveling for coffee and doughnuts.) Where should your barn be placed with reference to the house? Toward what compass points should house and barn face?

What are the best locations for garden, orchard, pasture, hayfield? In placing fruit trees how much space should be allowed for them to mature without crowding? How can fencing and gates be placed for easy pasture rotation and so livestock can always get water without your having to carry it?

In planning the house itself, how can you start small and yet make additions through the years so that the finally completed homestead is attractive and efficient for country living?

If you plan your place correctly from the beginning, you will save countless steps in the years to come. You can actually cut your chore time in half. One minute saved twice a day on chores equals 12 hours a year!

Have a Plan for Your Home

Before you lay out your place you ought to be able to answer all the above points and more too. Even if you're buying a country house that's already built, you should have a definite plan for refitting the house and land to your use. Over and over again, I've seen city people buy a farm, remodel the house but let the land go to rack and ruin. Even if you can't use all the land you've bought, you should learn enough about land management so you can rent your unused land to a neighbor and see that he keeps it in a good state. Idle land deteriorates just as fast as an idle house.

Seeing the Forest... and the Trees

"Don"t get me started," warns Carol Moore if a discussion wanders off point, yet touches on a social or political issue about which she has a strong opinion. The phrase is used often by this physically slight, soft-voiced woman who's gone toe to toe with drug dealers, bought a house on a whim, rescued buildings from destruction, and spent some time in jail.



In truth, no one ever has to get her started. Moore, 61, is the embodiment of a community activist. An East Hills resident since 1978, Moore has been a vital part of that neighborhood's resurgence from its darkest past and remains a relentless and devoted advocate for its future.

Her latest cause is trees. She is part of the Trees Please program developed by the East Hills Council of Neighbors and funded by the DTE Energy Foundation, the Dyer-Ives Foundation and donations from residents. In 2006, 29 trees were planted. A year later, 14 more were added. Moore became a literal earth mother to the project, watering and pruning the young trees until they were healthy enough to fend for themselves.

It all began the way every project begins for Moore — just outside her front door.

Strolling and Polling
An ardent walker, Moore noticed during tours of her neighborhood that the trees were generally smaller and appeared less healthy than those in the suburbs — even though the urban trees were much older. She decided to investigate and discovered that city trees were often products of neglect. They did not get the attention their suburban brethren received. They were not electively watered or pruned and any indication of frailty usually led to their removal. And even though trees were often replaced, Moore says these efforts were ineffective.

"Someone would plop in a seedling about the size of my thumb and say 'good luck,'" she says. "It's really not a good solution."

As she has done with all her projects, Moore became a facts nerd, reading anything and everything she could about trees and the environment. She found that even in environmental texts, trees were not mentioned as resources.

"Most people just don't see the value of trees," she says. "They'll write poetry about them or say 'Oooh, how pretty' but trees aren't considered worth anything. This motivated me to begin to be aware of how important trees are.

"Everybody's talking green like crazy these days but not seeing the green that's in front of their face," she continues. "Trees are the connective tissue between air and water. They are the ultimate recycler. They recycle all of the water...all of the air — they sequester carbon, they filter air pollution, improve hydrology, add 6-10% value to your house, and they reduce energy consumption."

Money Growing in Trees
Moore"s research convinced her that that preserving and extending the forest canopy of the city is an essential component of its value and quality of life.

But  she also learned local government does not necessarily share that view. When confronted with threats of disease or the need for expansion, its policy has leaned toward tree removal as a first answer. Most recently it involved the emerald ash borer, a pest Moore says can be defeated without removing all of the region's ash trees.

"The product is there, it works, and we can treat our trees without significant environmental impact," she maintains. In an effort to prove their approach can work, Trees Please will soon make a presentation to the Grand Rapids City Commission asking it to enact a moratorium on the cutting down of the area's ash trees.

A major hurdle in gaining widespread support, she says, is that trees are not viewed as a measurable asset.

"I saw a story recently that talked about making Grand Rapids greener," she says. " One of the projects that was considered innovative was that the planning commission endorsed a program to reduce developers' green requirements if the developer contributed to the county's farm preservation program.  So...we're giving city canopy away to preserve a county cornfield. How does that benefit the city? It's like we have this big blind spot when it comes to our trees because we don't put a value on them."



It was then Moore decided that the best way to save trees was to prove their value in absolute terms. In 2008, the neighborhood council employed Bartlett Tree Experts to conduct a tree survey of the East Hills area. The result was that more than 1,500 trees — most of them maple — were counted and valued at more than $4 million, a figure based on species desirability, location, the age and condition of the tree, and its replacement value. Moore finally had some ammunition.

"Trees are a green infrastructure that appreciate in value every year," Moore maintains. "You can't say that about roads; you can't say that about cars. These things start to devalue immediately. But trees don't. With a little bit of care, we can get maximum value out of these trees."

Building on a  Lifetime of Involvement
Trees are only part of a larger story that has to do with Moore's idea about neighborhoods and community.

To many who've lived in the East Hills neighborhood, she is an unsung hero. She was one of the first vocal opponents of the drug dealers in the area, and of one local establishment in particular, the White Rabbit. It was a challenging and dangerous time. "Those were the days you could get a brick thrown at you on Fuller and Wealthy," Moore recalls.

The group's efforts eventually paid off, although Moore still harbors a small regret: "They blamed the building for the activities that took place inside it; they should never have torn it down."

Moore assured that other properties in the area received a kinder fate. She bought many of them herself. She took on the property that became home for Gaia and for what is now The Sparrows. She was an early and devoted presence to the Wealthy Theatre reclamation project that, in her opinion, signaled the "beginning of the beginning" for the neighborhood.

"We had almost bottomed out by the time I got here," she says. "I figure it takes about 30 years for an area to come back. The theater was a 15-year project that became the critical piece of real estate to stabilize the neighborhood."

Where many might view a 30-year payoff as too long to wait, it could also be argued that Moore"s dogged devotion to the projects she takes on is the reason there are payoffs at all. Said one of her long-time admirers:  "A lot of people worked on the projects she's been involved with but Carol has the vision; it's her long view of things that makes a difference."

And she remains positive, almost to a fault. One neighborhood colleague recalls a tough moment after a city commission meeting when a frustrated Moore confided: "I can only do this for about 10 more years."

This legendary patience also allows her to present logical, reasoned arguments to support her causes, although passion, on occasion, will get the better of her.

"I went to jail once," she confessed. "I had chained myself to a tree. I don"t know why. It just seemed the thing to do at the moment. I ended up in jail. I don"t ever want to do that again."

When asked what drives her, Moore politely shrugs and says she has no definitive answer, but a few basic rules: "You first have to notice something isn't quite right. Then you have to care. And then you have to do something."

A native Georgian — she owns a winter home in her hometown of Savannah — Moore has lived in West Michigan since the 1970s, first in Wyoming, then in East Hills.

"I was working downtown," she recalls, "We went for a drive at lunchtime. We came by this neighborhood and I was rubbernecking and saw this house. Someone was in the yard and said: Are you interested in it? I said: Yeah."

Coming Home
She has lived in the same house ever since, building and reaffirming her belief that neighborhoods are the life blood of a community:

"Neighborhoods are the real drivers. They make the cities what they are. If you"re not working on the street level, then you"re really missing the core. Things can"t be driven just by what tourists want to see."

While Moore's ideas about activism involve study, research, and building strong multi-discipline coalitions, she does so using old-fashioned methodology. No cell phone. No computer. But lots of walking. Lots of listening.

"I got laid off my last regular job and it was the best thing that ever happened to me," she recalls. "I started walking. I was struck by how much you see, how much you can learn, just by walking your neighborhood."

Her activism has intensified in recent years, a byproduct she believes, of social change:

"I think I"m more drawn that way because it seems in the last 30 years there has been a real shift in what the word "public" even means. It has come to mean 'poor' rather than 'for everybody.'"

She then paraphrases a speech by former president Bill Clinton: "He said we determine public policy by asking two questions — what are going to do and how much is it going to cost — when the real question we need to ask is how does this policy improve the quality of life?"

In this she comes full circle. "Tress, for example, have a public benefit," she says. "If  we look around our community it simply means having the same fair standards benefits everyone."

What's next? Let's get started
Whether it's rescuing trees, buildings, or just being a good neighbor, Moore sees the concept of public involvement as a commitment of self....and for as much time as each cause takes.

"The concept of "public" is extending yourself beyond your front door," she maintains. "You just do a little bit more...and the cumulative effect of that is enormous. I'm not talking about the symbolism of it...but the real thing! The tide comes in...all ships float."

And in her long view, Moore continues to look forward to the future: "I want to make a difference. I figure I've still got about 25 years or so, and I want to put them to use. I don"t want or need a spotlight. I just want to help push things through."

Tips for coloring your hair at home

You can color your hair at home for a fraction of the cost of professional hair color. To achieve beautiful hair color at home, follow these simple hair coloring tips.



Keep it simple
If you want to cover your gray, or go a couple shades lighter or darker, then home hair color is for you. If you want anything more dramatic, then it's best to go to the salon. Also, if you hair is damaged or chemically treated, stick with a professional to be sure you don't overprocess and damage your hair.

Select a shade
Don't be overwhelmed by the hundreds of different hair color products on the shelves. Visit the websites of Revlon, Clairol or Loreal where you can fill out a simple questionnaire and figure out the right shade for you.


Don't make it permanent
If you are new to coloring your hair or trying a shade that's a little bit different, select a temporary or semi-permanent hair color rather than permanent. Temporary color washes out in 6-12 shampoos, while semi-permanent hair color will normally wash out in about 20-26 shampoos. Permanent hair color can last six to eight weeks or even longer.

Get organized
To make things easier, you can invite over a friend to help color your hair. However, even with a friend, you need to get organized. In addition to your home hair coloring kit, you will also need a few supplies.
Plastic gloves (normally provided with kit)
Old button-down shirt
Vaseline
Damp rag for wiping up spills
Hair clip
Wide tooth comb
Old towel
Big safety pin
Put on the shirt and fasten the towel around your neck with the safety pin before you begin.



Testing. Testing.
The instructions with your box of hair color say you should test a few strands of hair first, but many women skip this step. If you haven't used this particular hair color before, you should definitely do the test to make sure it's the shade you desire.


Coloring hair
Coloring your hair
Don't wash your hair the day you are going to color your hair. Most experts suggest waiting 24 to 48 hours after washing your hair before applying hair color. Freshly washed hair is lacking the oils needed to absorb the hair color.


Apply Vaseline to your skin all around your hairline to protect your skin from the dye.


Mix the hair color according to the directions on the box. Use a comb to separate your dry hair into four major sections.  Begin by taking a smaller subsection from one of the sections and applying hair color from the bottle. Don't use too big of a section - you want to make sure the color is thoroughly worked through your hair.


Start with the roots and work your way down and outward, piling your hair on the top of your head as you go. You can use a hair clip or multiple clips to pin your hair up.


Following the instructions included in the box, wait 25-45 minutes for the color to work. If you have a lot of gray hair, it's best to wait the maximum time limit. After your color has processed, rinse your hair with cool water.


Hair highlights
Wait to wash
After rinsing out your color, apply the conditioner supplied with your kit but don't wash your hair. Wait at least a full day, preferably 48 hours, after coloring your hair before you wash it. This will also allow the hair color to completely penetrate your hair shaft.


Touch-up your roots
About four to six weeks after coloring your hair, you may need to touch-up your roots. When touching up the roots, don't over-color the ends. Apply conditioner to your ends and then just color the roots and top. Five minutes before it's time to rinse out the color, use a wide tooth comb to distribute the color down the hair shaft to the ends. Then rinse as usual.


Highlights at home
For natural looking highlights, buy a second box of hair color a shade or two lighter to create highlights around your face. You can use a paint brush to paint on the highlights as thin or as thick as you'd like them.